Over the Range Microwaves With Best Exhaust Fans

Introduction: How to Replace a Bathroom Exhaust Winnow

They say nothing is certain but death and taxes, only I'd care to add a tertiary: repairs! In one week alone, three things bust down on us that had to represent repaired. When you're a do-it-your-selfer and a blogger, you have to watch the bright incline and call that a skillful week: repairs unsocial can give you a long ton of things to write out nigh!

For the Home Improvement contest, I'm sharing a DIY on how to put back a lav fan. 'Hidden' repairs are ones that go unnoticed, but they give the axe be the most important DIYs you'll do because they protect the investment funds in your home - and your health. A well running (and installed) bath exhaust fan will help prevent mold growth which can trigger asthma and allergies. If you notice moisture stains on your walls or ceilings, bimetal corrosion, visual mold, desquamation paint or wall wallpaper, cloudy windows and high up levels of humidity, it's time to modification that fan. Other than the tight and awkward quarters you have to function in, it's a middling unequivocal compensate - and well worth the effort to know that IT's done reactionary.

We weren't sorry to catch our old fan go; It was so trumpet-like that my wife could scarce hear me singing rubber ducky to her just outside the bathroom door. We really should have replaced it long before information technology conked out though: atomic number 3 (bad) portio would have it, ours stopped workings when the hottest and most wet stretch of weather striking us. Ironically, that was the same morning that our air conditioning broke downwardly too, so aside the afternoon our theatre was A stifling atomic number 3 you know what and the attic was even hotter! Discuss sweat equity!!

Measure 1: You Wish Pauperism

• renewal fan
• ducting (various lengths and configurations)
• tyvek coverall
• safety mask
• tuck tape
• duct insularism (only if you rump't reuse the old stuff)
• gloves (to fag out spell moving insulation)
• drill
• drill bits
• tabloid metal screws
• tin snips
• electrical cylindrical lining
• cardboard box to aid transport supplies all at once
• portable light (and extension corduroy to scat to closest electrical outlet)
• ladder
• plywood (to put between the joists to help you walk about the attic)

Step 2: Remove the Old Fan

To head start, I cut the power to the bathroom so I could disconnect the wiring safely without risk of burning! I then removed the old fan so I could find a replacement that would fit without having to cut a bigger hole into the drywall. I temporarily recorded a plastic bag over the hole subsequently removing the fan.

Since the fan is also adjunctive to the light, and there isn't a window in the bathroom, I set upward a bring off light outside the room access.

I protected all the surfaces in the bathroom by taping plastic to the walls and on the floor to catch any insulating material/heap that might drop down when I was working in the bonce later.

Step out 3: Inspect What You Have So You Can Purchase Accordingly

I inspected the condition of the aging ducting in the attic and discovered that the newfangled 4″ pipe engaged to the volcano was poorly installed and there were a good deal of gaps. I also discovered that the detergent builder cut to a fault big a hole into the roof – which further explained the gaps. The moving picture shows what the old duct (and winnow) looked like.

I found a specialty fan store that sells to the building diligence, but is open to the public. I took the antiquated fan with me to get the same dimensions to fit the kettle of fish in the cap, but I upgraded to a whisper untroubled lover (only 1 sone). Any devotee below 1.5 sones is considered to shut up so hold over that in mind when shopping.

Another thing to keep in mind is the diameter of the duct connector on the new housing. To maximize operation, try to match your duct diam to the new fan. Our duct was originally 4″ wide but because of the larger trap in the roof left away our builder, I opted to use a 5″ gasket in say to bridge the gaps at the roof vent and replace the 4″ ductwork with 5″ fittings. However, the replacement fan was 4" so I bought a duct reducer (installing the 4″ end onto the fan and the 5″ end onto the new ductwork). There's nothing wrong with maximising the size of the ductwork, but don't ever so perform the opposite Beaver State you will restrict the exhaust from the fan!

All-in, it be about $125 for the fan and supplies.

Tread 4: Determine Your CFM Rating

With esteem to performance, a devotee's ability to move air is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM), indeed tone for a CFM rating that will meet your needs by moving enough aerate for the size of your bathroom. To determine your CFM rating, use the following formula:

Duration x width x superlative of room x .13 = the stripped-down CFM paygrad

In addition to the buff, I purchased a variety of new fittings. Fetch much you call back you need and return what you don't consumption; on that point's goose egg worse than being perplexed in the Classical Greek and then realizing that you have to pass over out to buy something you didn't aim!.

Abuse 5: The Concrete Work Begins

I suited up in a white Tyvek coverall, like the one pictured, to protect against the scratchy detachment. I as wel wore a sullen duty mask: if you've ever had mice in the territory, eupnoeic in wee particles from the mess they entrust behind can make you sick. You need to take the forethought of wearing a masquerade party so you don't breathe in any toxins.

This is off theme, but if you practise find signs of mouse activity when you get up there, you can toss bags of warfarin pellets (if you can still purchase them) around the margin of the attic to fix rid of them (that's all extermination companies do). If you don't use it all up be trusted to lock it away where kids and animals can't gain access code to it for obvious reasons.

Step 6: Gather Supplies

I placed a ladder below our attic access and removed the panel (ours is in the bedroom closet). I took all my equipment ascending in a package to keep information technology all at once and behave the trip only in one case. This included a drill, screws, screw driver, tin snips, duct fittings, fan, electrical cylindrical lining, silver tuck record, etc. I also took a lurid light along an extension cord up with me to project (the light was run to another electrical power supply that was still working).

If you haven't antecedently done lic in the attic, you should place some runner strips of plywood across the joists so you can walk just about without risk of falling through the drywall! I had already ripped down some plyboard for this intent few years ago so I was good to go. Once in the attic, I pushed aside all the out of breath in detachment indeed I could locate the electrical wiring and hole in the ceiling of our bathroom (this is where covering the yap with a bright awninged old bag came in handy; it was easy to spot). Don some gloves when manipulation the insulation - it can be itchy.

Ill-trea 7: Installation

I removed the plastic bag, positioned the new fan torso over the hole in the cap and then screwed it into the joists. A metal disrobe (shown in the first picture) was attached to the back to help secure information technology further to the joist (it buns reduce side to side vibration). Depending on where your hole is positioned between the joists, you may get to install anyplace from one to 4 of these strips to secure it.

Our fan was positioned right beside the joist and so I but requisite one new strip at the back.

Next, I installed the electrical bushing onto the fan (it protects the wire) and so fed the wire through and connected it. I used pucker tape to seal right along the edges of the fan.

Footprint 8: Join Gasket and Humorous Convulsion

At the roof wrinkle, I misused a 5" gasket with a seal approximately it for the link to the roof vent. This is a much better solution than the straight run with release cuts the builder previously installed because it seals any gaps. I put-upon tin snips to cut away one side of the gasket to fit it hot flash against the joist systematic to line it up with the roof vent. Once conniption, I peeled the record off the gasket and pressed it finished onto the underside of the roof. I pre-drilled and inserted screws all around the gasket.

I dry fit the metal ducting, starting with the reducer at the fan, until I eventually got IT every to come up with the roof give vent.

As you can see in the last picture, one of the pieces of ducting is articulate indeed it can cost twisted into rightful about any position to delineate the duct work up with the roof vent.

Step out 9: Connect to the Roof and Seal

With all the dry fitting complete, I pre-drilled a hole into each duct joint and installed a few 8 x 1/2"screws to harbor the sections into status. Then I covered each articulate with silver tuck tape to seal it.

Step 10: Try out Electrical Connection and Insulate

Earlier finishing the insulation, I turned the power back on to make sure everything was spurting smoothly. Then I turned the power back off again as a precaution and went back into the attic to wrapping the pipe with insulation and tie it happening with cord (I reused the senior insulation that was originally at that place).

The last step is to return all the blown-in insulation to its original position between the joists.

Step 11: You'Ra Done

I brought complete my tools back down and sealed the attic access empanel.

The lastly step is to install the plastic ceiling cover over the lover to finish it off; it attaches with metal clips. Now the fan purrs like a kitten; induce the rubberize ducky!

Step 12: Delight Vote

If you found this Instructable helpful, delight vote for it in the home improvement contest!

1 Person Made This Project!

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Source: https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Replace-a-Bathroom-Exhaust-Fan/